split ends

What Causes Split Ends?

Split ends happen when the protective outer layer of your hair, called the cuticle, gets damaged. This damage can be caused by various factors:

Heat Damage

One of the most common causes of split ends is heat damage. When you use hot styling tools like flat irons, curling irons, and blow dryers, you expose your hair to high temperatures. This heat can break down the proteins in your hair, which makes it weak and prone to splitting. 15,16 The damage is even worse if you use these tools often or at very high temperatures.

For example, using a flat iron at its highest setting (often around 450°F) can immediately damage your hair. The heat breaks down the hydrogen bonds in your hair's keratin proteins, which help give your hair its shape and strength. Over time, this can lead to dry, brittle hair that's more likely to split and break.

Chemical Treatments

Chemical processes like coloring, bleaching, perming, and relaxing can also cause split ends. These treatments change the structure of your hair. This can weaken your hair and make it more likely to split. 28,29 If you get these treatments done too often or don't care for your hair properly afterward, you’re more likely to see split ends.

Bleaching your hair lifts the cuticle and removes pigment from the hair shaft. This can leave your hair porous and easier to damage. Similarly, chemical straightening treatments can alter the protein structure of your hair and make it more prone to breakage and splitting.

Mechanical Stress

Everyday actions can cause physical stress on your hair. Rough brushing, especially when your hair is wet and more fragile, can cause split ends. This does depend on your hair type, as curlier hair may be better to brush when it is wet and with a conditioning or detangling product in. Tight hairstyles that pull on your hair, like ponytails or braids, can also cause damage over time. 17,18 Even rubbing your hair too hard with a towel after washing can contribute to split ends.

When you brush your hair aggressively, especially when it's wet, you're putting a lot of tension on each strand. Wet hair is more elastic and can stretch up to 50% of its original length without breaking. However, this stretching can damage the cuticle and cause split ends and breakage.

Environmental Factors

The world around us can also damage our hair. The sun can dry out your hair and weaken its structure. Wind can tangle your hair, causing breakage when you try to detangle it. Pollution in the air can build up on your hair, making it more prone to damage. 24,29

UV rays from the sun can be particularly damaging. They can break down the proteins in your hair and fade its color. This damage weakens the hair shaft, making it more likely to split. Exposure to chlorine in swimming pools or salt water at the beach can strip your hair of its natural oils, leaving it dry and vulnerable to splitting.

Nutritional Deficiencies

What you eat affects your hair health. If your diet lacks certain nutrients, like protein, vitamins, and minerals, your hair may become weak and more likely to split. 30,12 Protein is especially important because it's what your hair is made of.

For example, a lack of biotin (vitamin B7) can cause brittle hair and nails. Iron deficiency can cause hair loss and make your hair more prone to breakage. Making sure your diet is balanced and rich in these nutrients can help keep your hair strong and resistant to splitting.

Genetics and Hormonal Changes

Some people are more prone to split ends due to their genes. The natural texture and strength of your hair can make it more or less likely to split. Hormonal changes, like during pregnancy or menopause, can also affect your hair's health. 3,4

During pregnancy, many women grow thicker, healthier hair because of higher estrogen levels. However, after giving birth, hormone levels drop, which can lead to hair loss and dryness.

Preventing Split Ends

While it's impossible to completely avoid split ends, there are many ways to prevent them:

Regular Trims

One of the most effective ways to prevent split ends is to get regular haircuts. Aim for a trim every 6-8 weeks. This helps remove the damaged ends before they can split further up the hair shaft. 5,6 Even if you're trying to grow your hair out, regular trims are important for maintaining healthy hair.

Proper Hair Care Techniques

How you care for your hair daily can make a big difference. Use a wide-toothed comb or a brush designed for detangling to gently work out knots, starting from the ends and working your way up. When your hair is wet, it's more fragile, so be extra gentle. Instead of rubbing your hair with a towel, gently squeeze out excess water and let it air dry when you can. 9,10

Consider using a microfiber towel or an old, soft cotton t-shirt to dry your hair. These materials are gentler on your hair than traditional terry cloth towels. When detangling, hold your hair in sections and work through small areas at a time to reduce pulling and stretching.

Heat Protection

If you use heat styling tools, always use a heat protectant product first. This creates a protective barrier between your hair and the heat. Heat protectant products often contain ingredients like silicones or natural oils that coat the hair shaft. This helps distribute heat more evenly and reduce direct damage. Some also have ingredients that can help smooth the cuticle, reducing frizz and the likelihood of split ends.

Try to use the lowest effective heat setting on your tools, and use them as infrequently as possible. 7,8 Let your hair air dry instead of using a blow dryer when you can.

Moisturizing

Keeping your hair well-moisturized can help prevent split ends. Use a conditioner every time you shampoo, focusing on the ends of your hair. Deep conditioning treatments or hair masks can give you extra moisture and nourishment, especially if you have dry or damaged hair. 13,14

Look for moisturizing products that contain ingredients like glycerin, which helps to attract and retain moisture, or natural oils like argan oil or coconut oil, which can help to nourish and protect the hair shaft.

For curly hair, which tends to be drier, consider using the "LOC" method: Leave-in conditioner, Oil, and Cream, to lock in moisture. All curl patterns are different and benefit from different routines, so ask your stylist or look online for resources to learn about what might be best for your hair.

Protective Hairstyles

Wearing protective hairstyles can help reduce damage and prevent split ends. Loose braids, buns, or updos can keep your hair from getting tangled or exposed to environmental stressors. Just be sure not to pull these styles too tight, as that can cause a different kind of damage. 11,12

For example, a loose French braid can protect your hair while you sleep, reducing friction against your pillow. During the day, a low bun can keep your hair safe from wind and sun exposure. Protective hairstyles look different depending on your hair type. If you have tighter coils, you may benefit from tighter braids, for instance. Take advantage of online resources to help identify your hair type and figure out what will be healthiest for your individual hair needs. Remember to switch up your hairstyles regularly to avoid putting stress on the same areas of your hair.

Nutrition and Hydration

A balanced diet rich in proteins, vitamins, and minerals can help keep your hair healthy. Foods like eggs, nuts, fish, and leafy greens are great for hair health. Drink plenty of water, too. Staying hydrated helps keep your hair moisturized. 1,2

Beneficial nutrients for hair health include:

• Biotin (vitamin B7): Found in eggs, nuts, and whole grains
• Iron: Found in lean meats, spinach, and lentils
• Vitamin C: Found in citrus fruits, berries, and bell peppers
• Omega-3 fatty acids: Found in fatty fish, flaxseeds, and chia seeds

You can also find supplements for these vitamins and nutrients at any drugstore. There are many multivitamins specifically made for hair, skin, and nail health as well. Make sure to speak with a healthcare provider before adding any new supplements into your regimen.

Limiting Chemical Treatments

If you color, perm, or chemically straighten your hair, try to space out these treatments as much as possible. The less you expose your hair to harsh chemicals, the less likely you are to develop split ends. When you do get these treatments, make sure they're done by a professional. 35,36

If you're coloring your hair, consider demi-permanent or semi-permanent colors, which are less damaging than permanent dyes. If you're getting a chemical straightening treatment, look for options that are formaldehyde-free and contain nourishing ingredients to help protect your hair.

Understanding Hair Structure and Damage

To understand split ends, it's helpful to know about the structure of hair and how it gets damaged:

Hair Anatomy

Your hair is made up of three layers:

1. The cuticle: This is the outermost layer, made up of overlapping cells that protect the inner layers. 37,39 When the cuticle is healthy, it lies flat, giving your hair a smooth, shiny appearance. Damage to the cuticle can cause split ends and a dull, frizzy appearance.
2. The cortex: This middle layer gives hair its strength, elasticity, and color. 38,40 The cortex has long keratin proteins held together by chemical bonds. These bonds can be broken by heat and chemical treatments. This causes weaker hair that's more prone to splitting.
3. The medulla: This is the innermost layer, though it's not there in all hair types. 38,41 The medulla's exact function isn't fully understood, but it may be left from when hair helped to insulate us.

Hair Care Products for Split Ends

Choosing the right hair care products is important to prevent and manage split ends. Here are some types of products that can help:

Moisturizing Shampoos and Conditioners

Look for shampoos and conditioners that are designed to moisturize and strengthen hair. These products often contain ingredients like:

• Keratin: A protein that helps strengthen hair and smooth the cuticle. 50,51
• Biotin: A B-vitamin that supports hair health and growth. 52,53
• Natural oils: Argan oil, coconut oil, or jojoba oil can help moisturize and protect hair. 54,4

When you use these products, focus on applying conditioner to the ends of your hair where split ends are most likely to form. Gently massage the product into your hair and let it sit for a few minutes before rinsing.

Leave-In Conditioners

Leave-in conditioners can provide extra moisture and protection throughout the day. These products are especially helpful for those with curly, dry, or damaged hair. Look for leave-in conditioners that contain:

• Panthenol: A form of vitamin B5 that can help strengthen and moisturize hair. 55,56
• Silicones: These ingredients can help smooth the hair cuticle and protect against humidity. 57,58

Apply leave-in conditioner to damp hair, focusing on the ends. Be careful not to use too much, as this can weigh your hair down. If you have curly or wavy hair, use the rake and scrunch method. With your head upside-down, use your fingers to gently comb the product through your hair. Then, use your hands or a microfiber towel to lift your curls towards your head, giving them a light squeeze.

Hair Oils and Serums

Hair oils and serums can help seal the cuticle and provide extra protection against split ends. Some beneficial ingredients to look for include:

• Argan oil: Known for its moisturizing and frizz-reducing properties. 59,60
• Jojoba oil: Similar to the natural oils produced by our scalp, it can help balance oil production. 61,62
• Vitamin E: An antioxidant that can help protect hair from damage. 63,2

Apply a small amount of oil or serum to the ends of your hair, according to the directions. Be careful not to use too much, especially if you have fine hair, as this can make your hair look greasy.

Deep Conditioning Treatments

Using deep conditioning treatments regularly can help keep your hair moisturized and strong, reducing split ends. These treatments often contain higher concentrations of nourishing ingredients than regular conditioners. Look for treatments that contain:

• Proteins: To help strengthen hair 32,29
• Natural oils: For deep moisturizing 64,65
• Ceramides: To help strengthen the hair cuticle 66,67

Use a deep conditioning treatment once a week, or more often if you have very dry or damaged hair. Apply the treatment to clean, damp hair, focusing on the mid-lengths and ends. Leave it on for the recommended time before rinsing thoroughly.

Heat Protectant Products

If you use heat styling tools, a good heat protectant is important. These products create a barrier between your hair and the heat, reducing damage. Look for products that protect against the highest temperature you use on your hair. Ingredients to look for include:

• Silicones: These create a protective coating on the hair. 68,35
• Natural oils: Some oils can withstand high temperatures and provide protection. 69,70
• Amino acids: These can help strengthen hair and protect against heat damage. 71,54

Apply heat protectant to damp hair before using any heat styling tools. Make sure to distribute the product evenly throughout your hair for maximum protection.

Split End Mending Products

While no product can truly repair split ends, some products claim to temporarily seal them, improving their appearance for special occasions. These products often contain ingredients like:

• Polymers: These can help bind the split ends together temporarily 72,73
• Proteins: To help strengthen the hair shaft 74,75
• Silicones: To smooth the hair and improve its appearance 76,77

Apply these products to the ends of your hair as needed. Consider them a band-aid solution to use for special occasions, as the split ends will continue to split up the hair shaft after use. While they can improve the appearance of split ends, they're not a permanent solution. Regular trims are still needed to truly get rid of split ends.

Techniques to Minimize Split Ends

How you treat your hair can affect the health of your hair and the formation of split ends. Here are some techniques to help minimize damage:

Gentle Detangling

• Start from the bottom: Begin detangling at the ends of your hair and work your way up to the roots. This prevents you from pushing knots further down the hair shaft. 35,75
• Use the right tools: A wide-tooth comb or a brush specifically designed for detangling is best. These tools are gentler on your hair than fine-toothed combs. 70,78
• Be patient: Take your time and gently work through knots instead of forcefully pulling through them.
• Detangle when your hair is dry: Wet hair is more fragile and prone to breakage. If you must detangle wet hair, use a wide-tooth comb and a leave-in conditioner to help the comb glide through. 79,80 This advice differs for different hair types.

Nighttime Hair Care

• Use a silk or satin pillowcase: These fabrics create less friction than cotton, reducing damage to your hair. 41,46
• Loose braid or bun: Putting your hair in a loose braid or bun can prevent tangling while you sleep. 34,90
• Avoid sleeping with wet hair: If possible, let your hair dry before going to bed. Wet hair is more prone to damage and breakage. 38,91

By incorporating these techniques into your hair care routine, you can reduce split ends and keep your hair looking healthier for longer.

Conclusion

Split ends are a common hair problem, but with the right knowledge and care, you can prevent them and take care of them. Understanding the structure of your hair and what causes damage is the first step in preventing split ends. By using the right hair care products, adopting gentle styling techniques, and maintaining a healthy diet, you can keep your hair strong and resilient.

Remember, while there are many products and techniques that can help improve the appearance of split ends, the only true “cure” is to cut them off. Regular trims are important in keeping your hair healthy. Between trims, focus on prevention by protecting your hair from heat and environmental damage, using moisturizing products, and being gentle in your hair care routine.

Ultimately, healthy hair is a reflection of overall health. A balanced diet, proper hydration, and stress management all play a role in the health of your hair. By taking a holistic approach to hair care, you can enjoy stronger, healthier hair with fewer split ends.

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